1. Deliver doors in a clean truck and under cover.
2. Store doors flat on a level surface in a dry, well-ventilated building. Cover to keep clean but allow air circulation. Avoid exposure to direct sunlight.
3. Handle with clean gloves, and do not drag doors across one another or across other surfaces.
4. Do not deliver or install doors until foundations, concrete floors and plaster or texture walls are completely dry.
5. If the doors are to be stored on the job site for more than one week at least top and bottom edges should be sealed.
6. Doors should not be subjected to abnormal heat, dryness or humidity, or sudden changes therein. They should be conditioned to average prevailing humidity of the locality before hanging.
7. Avoid placing a door too near a heating register (at least 4 feet away). Excessive heat on one area of the door creates drying out which results in warp, twist, shrinkage and checking on the faces.
8. The utility or structural strength of the door must not be impaired in the fitting of the door, the application of hardware or cutting and altering the door for lights, panels or any other special details.
9. Use three hinges per door on doors 7' 0" in height or less, and four hinges per door on doors over 7' 0" in height. Hinges should be set flush with edge surface . Be sure that hinges are set in a straight line to prevent distortion. Allow approximately 3/16" clearance for swelling of door or frame during future damp weather periods.
10. Immediately after fitting, cutting for closures, weather-strip and/or threshold and before hanging any interior or exterior door on the job, the entire door, including the top and bottom edges must receive three to five coats of paint, varnish or polyurethane to prevent undue absorption of moisture.
11. Exterior finishes shall be used on both faces and all edges of exterior doors. Where installed for outward swing with no protection from the elements, doors must be properly protected by flashing or other suitable means.
12. Before finishing, door surfaces must be clean and dry, and moisture content no higher than average. Remove handling marks or effects of exposure to moisture by sanding lightly with 120, 150, or 180 grit sandpaper with the grain, and clean with tack cloth before applying sealer or finish. Sand and clean again between coats.
13. KNOTTY ALDER HAS CHARACTER MARKS WHICH CONTAIN OPEN KNOTS, CHECKS AND COLOUR VARIATIONS ALL OF WHICH ARE NOT CONSIDERED DEFECTS. EXTERIOR DOORS MUST HAVE ALL VOIDS FILLED ON THE EXTERIOR FACES. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL VOID WARRANTY.
14. DOUGLAS FIR IS A NATURALLY SAP LADEN WOOD AND MUST BE PREPARED AS FOLLOWS.WIPE ALL SURFACES WITH ACETONE. THE PURPOSE OF ACETONE IS TO NEUTRALIZE THE SAP ON THE SURFACES AND OPEN THE GRAIN SO IT CAN BE SEALED PROPERLY. NEXT, SAND ALL SURFACES WITH 220 GRIT SANDPAPER, THIS WILL REMOVE ANY RAISED GRAIN.
15. Some species of wood contain a chemical which reacts unfavorably with certain finishes. Where possible, the surface should be tested for such unfavorable reaction. Application of a quality sealer before finishing will promote a uniform appearance and avoid sharp colour contrasts or blotchy appearance.
16. AVOID DARK COLOUR FINISHES; if a door is exposed to direct sunlight. This will reduce the chance of warping, checking, shrinkage and sunburn. Note sunburn in Douglas Fir will result in pitch bleeding out onto the surface, which will not be considered a defect. To remove bleeding pitch on surfaces, use a clean cloth in conjunction with acetone and apply to surface areas affected. This may have to be repeated several times throughout the year until the bleeding stops. The bleeding generally occurs during the summer months and in most cases will not persist after the first initial year of exposure.
17. Paint finish: Use a good quality oil base primer, then a minimum of three brushed on or five sprayed on coats of exterior oil base or latex base paint. If water base is used, an oil base primer must be applied first. Finish all sides and edges of door. Follow supplier's instructions carefully. Failure to comply will void warranty.
Stain finish : First apply a clear sealer or a combination of stain and sealer. Follow with a minimum of three brushed on or five sprayed on coats of exterior finish (such as polyurethane or varnish) in gloss or semi-gloss. All exteriors must have ultra violet (UV) inhibitors in the finish. Do not use oils or solid based stains as the final finish. Both sides and all four edges of the door must be finished. Follow supplier's instructions carefully. Failure to comply will void warranty.
18. After the door is finished, the panels may “breathe”, revealing a slight unfinished edge on the panel. Minor touch-up with stain and sealer or paint is all that is needed to finish the exposed edge. This is not to be considered a defect.
SPECIAL TIPS FOR BEST RESULTS
1. Exterior doors have a unique problem in that they have many joints and seams; therefore, a lot of open-end grains. If not properly treated, this could cause coating
failure due to excess moisture intake. Additionally, the temperature difference that exists between the interior and exterior can cause moisture transport, which may lead to problems. Where there are holes or areas where the joinery meets, saturate heavily with the coating and, where necessary, fill with a good quality polyurethane or acrylic-based caulking.
2. If doors have little or no overhang, we strongly suggest that doors be ordered with loose stop on one side, with the solid stop side being placed to the exterior. A cap bead should also be applied to the exterior. See page 6 for details.
3. Choice of gloss, semi-gloss or satin clear top coats is for aesthetics. In general, semi- gloss and satin finishes do not show flaws in the finish as readily as a gloss finish.
4. Semi-gloss and satin clear top coats generally provide a warmer feel than does a gloss finish.
2. Exterior door finishes may deteriorate quickly in extreme weather. Especially with little or no overhang applications. Inspect the finishes of exterior doors regularly and refinish as needed.